One of the most important training
innovations that Kevin Behan brought in his book Natural Dog Training, was the idea that dogs experience the world through feelings
of attraction and resistance, almost as if each dog were a charged particle or
one of Newton’s moving bodies, being influenced by invisible forces rather than
engaging the world through the principles of dominance and submission or via
associative learning.
Dogs don’t pull on the leash as much as they’re
pulled on by things
in the environment that exert a kind of
emotional gravity on them.
There are numerous ways to
increase a dog’s social attraction to its handler, meaning that the vigor
behind the dog’s usual interest in squirrels, interesting smells, other dog’s
hineys, etc., is transferred onto the person at the other end of the
leash—meaning you. One cool way of doing that is through what I call the “Dance
With Me” exercise.
Start by teaching your
dog to jump up on command (click here for details), then teach him to only jump up when the command is
given, then teach him that he has to stay up until you give him the release
signal, “Okay, off!” (This is also a cool way to curb your dog’s tendency to
jump up whenever he feels like it.)
Once your dog has those skills
under his belt you can start doing the “Dance With Me.”
It’s best if you take your dog to
a safe, open area where there’s plenty of room to run around, and with few
distractions.
Let your dog’s attention wander away from you momentarily. This
shows that she’s looking for something to plug her energy “in to.” Without
actually giving a recall signal (i.e., calling her to come to you), let her
know with a whistle or a kissing sound that you want her to pay attention. When
she references you, show her a treat or a toy. (Treats work best when first
starting to do this exercise.)
If she comes to you on her own,
fine. If not, you may have to start moving away from to increase her attraction
to you. Then, as she comes right up to you, invite her to jump up, using the
command, “Okay, up!” Then release her, saying, “Okay, off!” in a happy voice.
Repeat this sequence.
Ask her to jump up a third time,
but once she makes contact with her front paws, place the treat directly under
her nose but don’t let her take it. Instead, start back-pedaling while praising
her enthusiastically. Keep the treat right under her nose, praising her while
moving backwards for about 5 feet or so. Then give her the treat and praise her
extravagantly. Do this twice more, then go back to what you (and she) were
doing before. (If you have a very large dog, you can place one arm across your
chest—as if you’re a Roman soldier, holding a shield—and have the pooch put his
paws there.
You can do this exercise any
number of times during your walks or training sessions. But I would recommend
doing it only 3 times in a row, then taking a break for play or for whatever
other activities you and she want to engage in.
The following day (and on the days
after that) you’ll want to start making things a little harder by slowly
increasing the distance she has to stay up while you backpedal, going from the
original 5 feet to 10 feet, then to 15, then 20, to 25, and finally to about 50
feet.
Some dogs will have more of an
ability to sustain their “drive to connect” for longer periods or over longer
distances than others. So always “reward” the dog with the treat and lots of
praise before her drive subsides. If she has trouble staying up as long as
she’d been doing the day before, go back a little by decreasing the distance. If on a certain day your dog doesn’t seem as
motivated to do the “dance with me” as before, play a game of
“chase me” with her first.
If your dog likes to play
tug-of-war, another cool variation is to ask her to jump to grab the toy, then
backpedal while she tugs on the rope toy or a bandana with knots in either end.
This exercise should accomplish 2
important goals: 1) it will make your dog much more likely to come when called
(and she’ll come running with much more vigor than before), and 2) it will help
increase her tendency to “stay in the pocket” while walking next to you on the
leash, or even off-lead, for that matter.
In fact, you can incorporate the
“Dance With Me” game into both commands. For example, if your dog has
wandered off, and you want her to come running back to you, get her attention
then, when she looks at you, pat your chest or thigh, as if you want her to
come play “Dance With Me.” She’ll probably come running faster than usual.
You can also incorporate heeling
into the “Dance With Me” game. As you’re moving backwards, and it’s time to
allow the dog to jump down, don’t reward her yet with the treat or the toy, but
twist sideways so that she’s next to you in the heel position, and keep her moving
in synch next to you, saying, “Heel!” in a happy voice, luring her with the
treat or toy. Then give her the treat or throw the ball for her to chase.
I should mention an important
caveat. It's not advisable to do this exercise with nervous dogs. Those who have a withdrawn nature won’t enjoy being asked to jump up. They might do
it, but they won’t enjoy it. Meanwhile, dogs who have the kind of nervousness
that’s more extroverted may have too much enthusiasm; they
may not only jump up on you, they may grab your arm or rip your clothing, try to start
humping you, or even knock you over.
You should spend time with both kinds of
dogs working on resolving some of their nervousness (via “The Pushing Exercise”
and “The Eyes”) before getting them to play “Dance With Me.”
Hi,
ReplyDeleteI hope you don't mind, but the photo you have on your post was great and suited our blog post as well. I have linked back to your blog on the image.
Let me know if it is an issue and I will remove the photo. Here's a link to the post: http://fwd.ac/04PJIcJjCFL?t
Cheers,
Amanda
Sam's Dog Rules.
Hi Amanda,
ReplyDeleteI don't mind you "stealing" the photo. And I found some aspects of your article on energy to be valid, but I strongly disagree with your (and Cesar Millan's) use of the phrase "calm submissive energy." That's just plain wrong.
In truth, both "dominant" and "submissive" behaviors are symptoms of anxiety. And the last thing I'd want from any of the dogs I train is for them to show any kind of anxiety-related behaviors.
The idea that you have to be your dog's "pack leader" is also highly suspect.
See: http://leecharleskelleysblog.blogspot.com/2009/05/cesar-millan-pack-leader-or-predator_22.html
And: http://leecharleskelleysblog.blogspot.com/2008/05/proper-way-to-do-alpha-roll.html
And: http://leecharleskelleysblog.blogspot.com/2009/02/tuning-in-to-your-dogs-emotions.html
Best wishes,
Lee